Area of the Ruhr - Where Fox and Diver Greet Each Other
When I told my friends that I would be travelling to Bottrop
for a cycling tour for the week-end, they looked at me uncomprehending.
Who on earth would make a trip to Bottrop just for fun? In the heard of
the ‘Kohlenpott' (coal pot was slang for the region of the Ruhr because
this area was spiked with coal mines, coking plants and blast furnaces).
But I have been invited and I'll take a look. The hotel is situated quite
in the centre and can be reached quickly for people coming via the high-way
as well as for travellers arriving by train. At the railway station there
is a so called bicycle station. The Kommulaverband Ruhrgebiet and the Paritätische
Initiative für Arbeit e.V. have build a network of service stations
for bicycle tourists. We - five tourists from all over Germany - rent our
bikes for the week-end here. Besides rental the bike service station offers
transport for luggage, help with repair and information about special bike
ways through the coal district. After our saddles have been adjusted to
the right position we start with our bright orange roadsters.
After a short way through residential areas with tidy red brick houses
on both sides of the street we reach the Emscherpark Radweg. But this comfortable
cycling comes to a sudden end: We shall climb a 65 m high steep hill! I
didn't expect that, I always thought the Region of the Ruhr was plain country!
Kai - who's responsible for tour planning - admits: "This hill is artificial. It's a former
slagheap, there are several in the coal district, the slag of the mines had to
be put somewhere. On the manmade hill right opposite you can do downhill skiing,
there is the longest skihall in the world.” Out of breath and sweating we reach
the top of the hill, but that's not yet our destination. In the middle of a bold,
moonlike landscape we see a monster made of steel sections: the 50 m high Tetraeder.
Via an airy staircase made of steel we reach the platforms of this unusual viewpoint.
The view is phantastic: the whole region is at our feet and it so unbelievable
green! We can see Oberhausen and Duisburg - todays destination.
The Emscherpark Radweg leads us on peaceful side streets to castle Vondern. The
age of Castle Vondern is unknown. Todays buildings date from different eras starting
in 13th century. After Castle Vondern was almost in ruins, the historical parts
were secured with joint forces of government, city and a fund to revive the castle
with a new use.
Only a short way off we reach the Rhine-Herne-Canal. The cycle track is broad
and well paved. From afar we see the gigantic ‘Gasometer' (gas storage tank)
of the Gutehoffnungshütte Oberhausen. It was shut down in 1988 and converted
into the biggest and most extraordinary exhibition hall in Europe in 1993/94.
It's even possible to take a lift up to the roof, but as we have a lot more to
see today so we carry on. Our tour passes through an unexpected green landscape
with garden plots allotments and small pieces of woods we reach Duisburg. Suddenly
a reddish animal with a thick fuzzy tail crosses our way. A fox! When was the
last time I saw a fox in the wild? I don't remember.
Only few meters separate us from the Landschaftspark Duisburg Nord. Behind this
idyllic name the shut down steel works of August Thyssen AG is hiding. A dedicated
bicycle guide awaits us at the entrance. With his bike he accompanies us though
this partly re-natured industrial landscape which covers an area of 200 hectare.
We hear a lot about the history of the steel works but also some things about
the South-African senecio inaequidens. This plant was carried to Europe in sheep
wool by ships about 100 years ago. It feels quite at home on the slopes of the
river Emscher, which isn't as foul-smelling any more as it's fame. Most of the
buildings of the former steel works are used for new purposes now. Music and
cinema performances take place in the casting hall . In the former coal bunkers
the Deutsche Alpenverein (Club for Mountain Climbing) has established a training
area for mountain climbing, at the ‘Via Ferrata Monte Thysso' you can climb a
wall with the help of installed ladders, ropes and hooks. But once again we don't
trust our eyes! We see two persons fully dressed in diving-suit with scuba on
their back and fins in their hands. Maybe they are just making a movie here! “No,
no” our guide amuses himself about so much ignorance “a diving school has established
their practicing grounds in the former gas tank. The tank was filled with water
up to a height of 13 m. The ground has been covered with gravel and an artificial
reef, a sunken motor yacht and two car wracks will make diving adventurous.
After this exhausting 2-hour-tour we put our bikes aside and climb the old furnace
No 5 right up to the top. I'm deeply impressed. It's a high monster where they
cooked steel only some 20 years ago and now we use it as view point. We learn
a lot how steel was cooked and this information is toped only by the very important
information that for every furnace a furnace-jab-whole-drilling machine as well
as a furnace-jab-whole-stuffing-machine is needed (direct translation, I couldn't
find the correct English words).
After so much information we really have deserved some refreshments. We take
a seat in the garden of the newly opened restaurant and enjoy the view on coal
dumper, cowper and blast furnace together with coffee and homemade cake. Those
of us who are too tired to cycle home about 15 kilometers, have the possibility
to return their bike at the service station in the Landschaftspark and go back
to Bottrop by bus and train.
For further information see also: photogallery and links